Lisa Fonssagrives-Penn (1911-1992) fut danseuse, photographe, styliste et sculptrice mais surtout l'un des mannequins les plus emblématiques de l'univers de la mode du XXème siècle.
Elle travailla avec les plus grands photographes de mode de son époque de 1935 à 1955 : Richard Avedon, Erwin Blumenfeld, Louise Dahl-Wolfe, Fernand Fonssagrives, Toni Frissel, Horst P. Horst dont elle fut la mannequin favorite, George Hoyningen-Huene, Frances Mclaughlin-Gill, Irving Penn, Georges Platt-Lynes, John Rowlings, etc.
Elle sera la première mannequin à faire la couverture du magazine Time en septembre 1949.
Épouse d'Irving Penn de 1950 jusqu'à sa disparition en 1992, elle fut selon Alexander Liberman, directeur artistique du magazine Vogue, le sujet de ses plus grandes photographies.
L'exposition à la MEP présentera environ 150 tirages originaux d'époque, issus de sa collection personnelle.
Certaines de ces images ont été publiées dans Vogue France, Vogue US ou Harper's Bazaar et beaucoup sont inédites, dont un grand nombre de photos de Fernand Fonssagrives son premier mari, et des portraits plus privées réalisés par Irving Penn.
Une collection intime et étonnante, dont la plupart des tirages sont révélés au grand public pour la première fois.
Reassessing the career of the hugely influential Harper's Bazaar art director, who changed the course of twentieth-century American photography and graphic design
This lavishly illustrated volume explores the influence and significance of the Russian-born photographer, designer, and instructor Alexey Brodovitch (1898-1971), best known for his art directorship of the American fashion magazine Harper's Bazaar between 1934 and 1958, as well as his tutelage of many celebrated documentary and fashion photographers, including Irving Penn, Richard Avedon, Eve Arnold, and Lillian Bassman. Though disparate in their aesthetic approaches, these figures are unified by their responses to Brodovitch's dictum to «astonish me.» The authors address Brodovitch's impact on photography as an artistic medium in the mid-twentieth century and explore how European art and design became the foundation of a new American print culture. Brodovitch's own work will be illuminated through his personal projects-such as the magazine Portfolio and the photographic project Ballet, which depicted performances of the Ballets Russes de Monte Carlo in the United States (whose evolution echoed Brodovitch's own émigré condition). Case studies of his transformative collaborations with photographers such as Arnold, Avedon, Penn, Lisette Model, Henri Cartier-Bresson, Hans Namuth, and André Kertész reveal pivotal encounters that may surprise even the most ardent photography aficionado. An illustrated chronology offers an important tool for scholars on this influential but often overlooked figure.
Distributed for the Barnes Foundation
Exhibition Schedule:
Barnes Foundation, Philadelphia
(March 3-May 19, 2024)
Physique showcases over 250 rare physique photography prints from the private collection of renowned critic and curator Vince Aletti. Spanning the 1950s to the early 1980s, these photographs chronicle a hidden, coded world of homoerotic imagery. Once sold discreetly through mail-order catalogues and underground physique magazines, the prints point to an emergent queer sensibility and visibility. Accompanying this visual archive is a personal essay by Aletti which traces the historical and political significance of these images, firmly establishing their place in the canon of photography. He celebrates the artistry of the photographers, models, and studios that brought the photographs to life. Physique reveals a forgotten chapter of American gay culture in which photographic prints served as a lifeline, connecting a community of men under threat while also providing solace, pleasure, and empowerment amid oppression.
For nearly a century, fashion magazines have provided sophisticated platforms for cutting- edge photography - work that challenges conventions and often reaches far beyond fashion itself. In this book, acclaimed photography critic Vince Aletti has selected 100 significant magazine issues from his expansive personal archive, revealing images by photographers rarely seen outside their original context. With his characteristic élan and featuring stunning images, Aletti has created a fresh, idiosyncratic, and previously unexplored angle on the history of photography.
